Training Plan
The plan will consist of you training about 5 days per week. Each session should only last 20-30 minutes at this stage (once your dog can stay comfortably for 30+ minutes alone, the plan will change to accommodate that). Note: this is the ideal starting time for the training program. Trying to add in extra sessions per day, or longer sessions at first, can actually slow down progress.
The training will consist of gradual and systematic absence rehearsals (where you leave your dog alone) - always staying below or at an upset (anxiety) threshold.
We will implement warmups - where the dog is left for a time below his threshold (and under 60 seconds even when the dog has achieved a number above this). These are like practice attempts to help the dog learn nothing scary is occurring.
In addition, we will vary the training criteria (difficulty level) so it is random. This means we need to actively work to prevent creating unwanted patterns. If we classify each step as easy, medium, or hard - we want to make sure we don’t fall into patterns, for example: easy, hard, easy, hard, and keep repeating this.
Each step should be random to prevent the dog from predicting associations that potentially breakdown the progress. Dogs are masters at connecting dots and noticing associations. We want to make sure dogs with separation anxiety are learning they are safe when alone, not for example to think all warmups are irrelevant but notice the final more challenging step and panic.
Set up your computer camera to observe your dog:
After you set up the cameras, wait about 5 minutes before training, so these don’t predict you leaving the home. You can also vary this amount of time, so it is not too predictable.
Then, you can create a Zoom link, open it on your computer to observe your dog via a second device (iPad, phone) that you take outside with you for each trial.
If on a training attempt, for example, your goal/mission step was to leave the house for 10 seconds, and your dog starts to panic after 8 seconds, immediately return and make a note of the behavior. Then the training plan can be adjusted accordingly for future steps. There is no benefit to forcing your dog to try to deal with the remaining time after he’s already become anxious - this just sensitizes him to the situation, increasing anxiety.
Taking breaks between each step in the plan:
For example: one step/mission could be to pick up your keys, leave the front door, shut and lock it, and stand outside for 5 seconds, then return inside.
After completing this step, then wait approximately 30-90 seconds before completing the next step in the plan, which might be something like pick up your keys, leave the house, lock the door, and stay outside for 7 seconds, then return.
Then wait approximately 30-90 seconds again before starting the next step/mission. Make sure to vary the time within these 30-90 seconds, so it’s not always the same.
Don’t always wait until the dog settles before starting the next step. You can write notes for how your dog did, then do different things resembling normal life activities.
The final goal is to consistently increase alone time. But we need to make sure there are plenty of easy wins for the dog. In addition, some days the duration of alone time will remain the same as the previous day, so the difficultly level will not increase every session or every step in the plan.
Increasing duration (when your dog is ready):
Once your dog can be alone for longer than 30 minutes, the training session time can be longer. You can switch to practicing two times per week for longer duration sessions, and mix in 2-3 days a week of easy wins for your dog (shorter durations).
Example Training Plan:
Remember your individual dog will have his own starting point he’s comfortable with, and therefore, an individual plan based on keeping him free from anxiety during the process. But this is an example of a training plan to help create steps/missions to complete during a session.
We can start this way for a dog that has trouble with any absence time, or 1 second of time.
Also remember to wait a random amount of approximately 30-90 seconds between each step.
To have accurate recording of time, for each step, start the timer after leaving the house and closing the door; and end the timer when you return inside.
Example Training Session:
1. Go to the door, open it, then close it and stay inside.
2. Go to the door, open it, step outside, return and close the door.
3. Go to the door, open it, then close it and relax inside like everything is normal.
4. Go to the door, open it, step outside, close the door, and then immediately return inside.
5. Repeat step 4 several times (for example 4 times).
6. Go to the door, open it, step outside, close the door, return inside after 1 second.
7. Repeat step 6 a few times (for example 4 times).
8. Go outside, close the door, lock it, return inside after 1 second.
9. Repeat step 8 a few times (for example 2 times).
10. Go outside, close the door, and return after 2 seconds.
This would be 17 steps/trials with the repeats, with 30-90 second between each one. So all of this needs to fit within the 20-30 minutes training session. If you notice you’re going to go over that amount, just leave some steps for the next session.
The final step in the plan should be the most challenging for the training session.
Example of increasing duration (desensitization to alone time):
Now, during future sessions, gradually build up the time your dog can comfortably be left alone.
This is not an example training session, but an example of how to gradually increase duration alone. It is also not an exact order, since each dog is an individual and may need adjustments specific to him.
We will randomize the criteria-difficulty level (for example, the amount of time left alone). So each step will not progress in a straight line, always increasing in time. For example, if your dog can be left alone for 8 seconds, you might work on a step leaving him for 7 seconds, then one at 2 seconds, then another at 2 seconds, then one at 8 seconds. Then for the final step in that day’s session leave him for 9 seconds. But you won’t go from 8 seconds to 35 seconds in one jump. The pattern below is a typical progression (but not a training plan step-by-step plan).
1. Work on 1 second of alone time
2. Work on 2 seconds.
3. Work on 3 seconds.
4. Work on 4 seconds.
5. Work on 5 seconds.
6. Work on 6 seconds.
7. Work on 7 seconds.
8. Work on 8 seconds.
9. Work on 9 seconds.
10. Work on 10 seconds.
11. Work on 15 seconds.
12. Work on 20 seconds.
13. Work on 30 seconds.
At this stage, we’ll start to add in pre-departure cues/triggers (things your dog notices predict you leaving him alone). We cover this topic more in the next section.
14. So an example step might be: pick up your keys, go outside, lock the front door, and return after 1 second.
Then we’ll gradually build up time with picking up keys. Then work on picking up purse/briefcase, leaving for 1 second. And then build up the alone time.
Then we can combine multiple pre-departure cues/triggers (put on shoes, plus pick up keys, etc.), leave for 2 seconds, return.
After your dog is comfortable with your pre-departure cues at shorter durations alone, then you can go back to increasing alone time with these cues.
15. Work on 45 seconds
16. Work on 60 seconds.
17. Work on 2 minutes.
18. Work on 4 minutes.
19. Work on 6 minutes.
20. Work on 8 minutes.
21. Work on 10 minutes.
22. Then 15 minutes, then 20 minutes, then 30 minutes, 45 minutes, 1 hour, 2 hours, 3 hours, 4 hours, etc.
Continuing the training plan:
1. Continue to communicate with your veterinarian to make sure your dog’s medications are working optimally.
2. Continue to suspend absences.
3. Continue training sessions 5 days/week - work on the steps/missions.
4. Track your progress, and keep detailed notes.
5. Stay motivated! You can do this. Your dog will be so grateful for the trust you are building together. The chance to be free of anxiety and fear for your dog is priceless, and will lead you back to more freedom in your life.